Hand or Handle
The feel of the cloth when you hold and scrunch in your hand. A cashmere cloth would have a smooth and luxurious handle. A Harris Tweed would have a firm and robust handle.
The super number is measuring how fine the wool is. by measure of how many times each of the individual woollen yarns have been twisted around and density per square inch. Generally then, the higher the super number is, the finer the cloth will be. Often, this means it will also be lighter. How fine these woollen yarns are is measured in microns.
A paper pattern is a thick card with a clients measurements and notations outlined on it for each panel of cloth to be cut for a jacket, trouser or waistcoat. A traditional method of measurement storing, these personal patterns are kept for future orders and updated over time.
To strike a pattern is to use a chalk and mark out the paper pattern outline on the cloth to be cut.
At Hanmire we cut a new pattern for each customers measurements. The cut of a suit refers to the quality and accuracy of the cloth cutting and how well the suit fits. If the cut and tailoring is accurate, the suit will be balanced and proportioned and therefore fit exceptionally well. We cut a modern and classic Savile Row cut, or west-end cut, suit. Our cut is defined by roped shoulders, high armholes and light suppression on the waist. Our lapels are sharp, and the trouser leg elegant and straight leg – not wide leg or skinny-fit.
At Hanmire we are known for our clean flattering lines of tailoring.
A flattering siloutte is a well cut suit that fits well on the body, not tight nor loose, Ours is balanced and masculine.