As experts in tailoring all different types of cloth Hanmire bespoke tailors we can efficiently advise you the best range of cloths to suit your style, need and budget. From your consultation we can help advise you through over 4 thousand cloths we make with. We also have hundreds of cloths for shirting and lining.
We partner with many independent cloth merchants from UK and Italy who weave exclusive, refined cloths in unique colours, patterns and composite to cater for our clients individual tastes.
We make clothing from some of the best cloths in the world, specifically made for bespoke tailoring. The quality often noted in Super numbers from Super 100’s, Super 110’s, Super 120’s, up to Super 200’s identifies the quality of the cloth. A low super number is an extremely well made and durable cloth, whilst a high super number is a very fine, luxurious and delicate cloth that will look amazing and have a soft hand, but will need extra care and attention to maintain.
When picking a cloth its important to understand where the suit will be worn and what weight may be best for the garment. At Hanmire we help our customers understand the differences in weight.
As a guide here's the breakdown of what the weights are.
7 - 9 oz (210 - 270 grams) is considered a lightweight cloth often called tropical, or fresco for the loose-weave varieties. Good for warmer climates allowing free movement and breathability. We can make up summer suits, jackets and travel suits. We offer linen, bamboo or wool options.
9.5 - 12 oz (285 - 360 grams) is considered a mid-weight and the best option for ‘all year round’ suits. This weight is ideal for most suits and jackets for business, wedding and classic pieces for your wardrobe. We offer silk, cashmere or Vicuna blends for a refined, exclusive cloth.
12 - 13 oz (360 - 390 grams) is considered a traditional English mid weight cloth for all year round wear. Perfect for a business suit, cloth at this weight is durable and has a great handle. We offer traditional Huddersfield worsted wools, flannels and light tweeds.
14 - 19 oz (420 - 570 grams) is considered a heavyweight cloth. We typically use for tweed suits, flannel suits and winter overcoats. The suits and jackets we make in heavyweight cloths are warm and robust for lifelong wear. We offer Scottish cashmere cloth for a warm and luxurious coat.
A Tailors note; a lightweight cloth does not necessarily mean a cooler suit, and a heavy cloth is not the warmest. The construct of the cloth is crucial.
Cloth construction and weaves
There are a number of key types of cloth weaves and patterns we use in our clothes at Hanmire. Worsted wools, high twist, hopsack, tropical/fresco, tweed, flannel, cashmere, and silk blends - each has their distinct properties, and character. We can talk you through in your consultation which would best suit your requirements.